Zambian Disneyland

Zambian Disneyland

“Livingstone is like Disneyland except everything costs ten times more” Eloise remarked as we shelled out another $150 for a 15 minute helicopter ride over Victoria Falls. She’s right. According to the guide book Livingstone is “the adventure capital of southern Africa”, an adrenaline junkies dream! You can do anything here—the crazier the better---from whitewater rafting, bungee jumping, walking with lions, kayaking, elephant safaris, swimming in the Devil’s Pond…and between the four of us we pretty much did it all!

Livingstone is named after the intrepid explorer David Livingstone who in 1855 was the first white man to lay eyes on Mosi-oa-Tunya (the smoke that thunders), which he renamed in honor of Queen Victoria. Livingstone served as the capital of Zambia or Northern Rhodesia as it was known until the1930s. It is a quaint little town with many colonial buildings, a railroad and historical museum, a selection of good restaurants, and a variety of places to stay that suit all budgets. Our favorite restaurant was the Laughing Dragon. After spending so much money each day it felt good to save a little. The four of us could eat four entrée’s, two starters, and several bottles of Coca-Cola Lite for under $12.

Each morning we got up early to begin the day’s adventure. One of the highlights for me was our day trip into Botswana to spend the day in Chobe National Park. We had signed up for a river cruise and driving safari. Chobe is known for its large elephant population. Many of the elephants fled the wars in Angola and crossed into Botswana where they have thrived. Other elephants migrated from Zimbabwe and Zambia during the 1980’s and early 1990’s when poaching was quickly diminishing the herds. The organization Elephants Without Borders is trying to relocate many of them back to Angola. It seems that elephants are smart enough to detect mines and have proven to be very useful in this regard. The drive through the national park was terrific. We saw numerous hippos, elephants, water buffalo, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, and various antelope. Of the “Big 5” I have yet to see any of the cats. Lions do live in Chobe but are rather elusive.

We hiked along the edge of the falls and down into the Boiling Point to view the falls. It is difficult to describe Victoria Falls; everything has already been said. October is not the ideal time to come because it is the dry, hot season and the water is rather low. Regardless, they are majestic and frightening at the same time. Just two weeks ago someone slipped and fell over the edge to their death. Charlie and Eloise bungee jumped off the bridge into Batoka Gorge. It made me almost nauseous to watch but I caught it all on film including Eloise’s screams. Other bright spots of the week included the helicopter ride over the falls, our two hour “walk with the elephants”, and the swim in Devil’s Pool. This later activity involves jumping into a small pool located on the edge of the falls. You can hold on to the edge and look down into the abyss. Not for those afraid of heights!

After a long hot day we enjoyed sundowners at the Royal Livingstone Lodge. The perfect way to end each day in Livingstone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVN9KnWy-H8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkV2J3Ri23U&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Under African skies

This is the story of how we begin to remember…

These are the roots of rhythm

And the roots of rhythm remain Paul Simon

Road Trip

A road trip in the heart of Africa is never an easy thing to do, especially with a looming gas crisis. Traveling in Africa is difficult. For one thing, you have to be prepared for the worst. That means carrying extra jerry cans of gasoline, spare tires, water, tools, and food. There are no rest stops along the way, no picnic tables, no toilets, no highway patrol, and very poor cell phone reception. Secondly, the roads can be treacherous and leave much to be desired. Because there had been rumors of an impending gas shortage I had the foresight to fill up a few days before our scheduled trip. I could only fill up the tank, no jerry cans were allowed.

My traveling companions included Charlie, Eloise, and Kay, all first year teachers at AIS. We left at the crack of dawn in order to avoid the heat for our first independent African adventure---a 5 day trip to Livingstone, Zambia; home of the mighty and majestic Victoria Falls. Since I was driving, I had found a nice young American mechanic to service my car. He put new tires on, gave the car a tune-up and basically reassured me that everything would be ok on the 500 plus kilometer journey.

We drove through Chobe---no gas and long lines at each service station. Mazabuka--- no gas. Long lines that stretched around the block awaited us in each small town we came to. Third stop Choma---still no gas. By this time we were a bit worried because I had no idea how much my tank holds nor how many miles to the gallon the CRV gets and we still had about 200 kilometers to go. My tank was a little below half full. As we were debating on what to do, two young Zimbabwean truck drivers approached us. They had just delivered a car in Mazabuka and had an empty flatbed. They assured us that we would make it. “I promise you,” they said. They also assured us that if we were to run out of gas they would be close behind. We exchanged cell numbers and with renewed confidence set off again knowing that Bob and Clyde had our backs. By this time the temperature was edging up to 105 degrees. Paul Simon’s Graceland CD blasted from the speakers and we sang along as we raced across the blacktop.

The Flamboyant trees shone like beacons on the dusty plains. Small villages with their conical mud/thatch huts dotted the horizon. Despite the heat people walked along the road carrying bundles of wood or water jugs on their heads. Women sat under trees selling watermelons and tomatoes. We passed banana groves, sugar cane and cotton fields. Cattle and goats grazed in the ditches and I had to do a few quick maneuvers to avoid hitting a poor animal that had wandered on to the highway.

The highway from Kafue to Zimba is excellent and the miles whizz by. However, the last 75 kilometers into Livingston are horrible. The main road is under construction so you have to take a detour into the bush. It is a bone jarring experience. The road itself is just gravel and sand with huge pot holes the size of craters. It was a very windy day and the dust swirls coming towards us reminded me of blizzard conditions. Whenever a truck passed you drove blind for a few minutes due to the red dust. Finally, it ended and we could see Livingstone ahead of us. We made it and still had a liter or two of gas to spare.

Into the Wild

Into the Wild

Last Friday a large group of AIS teachers left directly after school in order to make our lodge/camp by dusk in the Lower Zambezi National Park. Believe me, no one wants to be on the road after dark. That goes for the city of Lusaka too. There are very few lights and those that do work are only in the actual downtown area. Once you leave the inner city it is pitch black. People are out walking and riding their bikes, often in the middle of the road, cars drive without headlights, goats and cows randomly cross the blacktop, and you have to be careful of the occasional drunk as he stumbles home. So it was crucial that we got on the road as soon as possible. It takes a good three hours to make the trip.

The drive is spectacular. As you leave the city, the highway slowly climbs out of the Kafue Flats and into the Chambizi foothills. Villages are scattered throughout. Hundreds of traditional mud and thatch huts, identifiable by their conical roofs, dot the landscape. As you near a village, children run at you trying to sell charcoal, vegetables, fruit and peanuts. Small boys lead their cows and goats across the road and women in bright colored chit tongs wave as you pass by.

We arrived at the Kiambi Lodge shortly before the sunset over the Zambezi River. The lodge is located high on the banks of the river with panoramic views looking across to Zimbabwe. The chalet tents are beautifully rustic and very comfortable. Most of our party opted to stay at the campground. As I lay in my bed, strange animal noises filled the night and I was very happy to be in my chalet above ground.

The next morning, as we sipped our coffee, we spotted our first elephant on the opposite bank of the river. Shortly after 8am, we set out on our canoe trip. I have to admit that I had serious second thoughts when the guide told us about the various dangers. The first being the hippopotamus. Hippos are considered the most dangerous animal in Africa. Should they become incensed, flip your canoe and attack you, we were advised to swim like hell for the shore. This advice contradicts the guidebook, which states: “Nothing in the Zambezi is intent on tipping you out of your canoe.” Hmmm. The second menace is the crocodile. We were told to give them a wide berth and not to dangle our hands in the water.

Despite our trepidations, we set off into the wild. It was an incredible experience. According to the travel guide, the park is considered one of the best places to see elephants and we were not disappointed. Small herds came down to the river to drink and we quietly watched them. Hippo “pods” were also abundant. At first, they looked like logs floating in the river but soon their playful antics and grunting sounds identified them. They were very interesting to observe. A large group of baboons kept a close watch on us as we floated down the river. The closer we paddled, the more they clowned around. We also saw numerous birds of all sizes and colors. The most spectacular being the Fish Eagle which is the national bird of Zambia. And yes, there were crocs, massive ones sunning themselves on the sandy shore.

I plan to make numerous trips to the Lower Zambezi. There is so much beauty here. I think next time I may even forgo the tented chalet and camp.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0509/sights_n_sounds/

Idioms

Bwanji,

Muli bwanji or how are you in the local dialect.

It has been one month since I arrived in Zambia. I can honestly say that I have not experienced culture shock ---after all, Zambia is considered “Africa-lite”. Lusaka has three major shopping malls, a Cineplex with 5 screens, Subway, a good selection of dark chocolate, Blockmaster aka Blockbuster, cell phones, Internet, and everyone’s car of choice ---the Rav4.

Still, there are a few things that take a bit of getting used to especially when it comes to driving in Lusaka and understanding the local idioms. A colleague invited a few of us for a “bush walk” to be followed by a “braai” and “sundowners” after school one day. Cool. She gave me directions to her house: “Take a left at the robot and then the first slip after the flyover and then it’s the first right after the sleeping policeman.” I assumed she meant the guard at her driveway.

Yes, all private homes are gated and have guards. They are also surrounded by concrete walls or electric fences, and as an added precaution, have one or more dogs as protection. Petty crime is rampant. Car jacking, purse snatching, pick pocketing, and scamming do happen. Jackie’s (a teacher who lives off campus) guard caught a young man stealing clothes off her clothesline the other day!

The school too has a high retaining wall surrounding the entire complex and it employs 25 guards. They do their drills on the soccer field every morning and look pretty smart in their green berets. They do not carry guns; there is no need. Thank God.

Several teachers walk or ride their bikes on the numerous trails/roads, which surround the school. When I say trails I am referring to the hard beaten, well-worn paths that the locals use. Many of them travel barefoot and their prints are visible in the red dirt. They are the men and women who work for the white families in the new houses. Afterschool, you will meet women carrying jugs or large bundles on their heads or men riding a bike piled high with charcoal or firewood as they head back to their neighborhoods.

It is the dry season and the hills are brown, the grass dry and brittle. The baobab trees stand starkly against the blue sky. Every leaf is covered in thick red dust. Early on a Saturday morning as you walk you often hear the rustle of an animal getting out of your way---could it be a cobra? Yes, they do exist as well as other poisonous snakes. One has to be careful. You are in the “bush”. Despite my fear of creepy-crawlies, I enjoy walking the hills off of Leopard’s Hill Rd. So I said “yes” to the walk with my colleagues. What Helen meant by the “sleeping policeman” was a speed bump. Ha! What a great phrase! I also like the word “robot” for traffic light. Or “slip” for exit or entry road, and “fly-over” means overpass.

Translation: We were invited for cocktails to watch the sunset (sundowner) and enjoy a barbecue (braai) on her patio.

The sunsets are spectacular. There’s a reason for naming cocktail hour for this time of day. I have never seen anything like it. The colors are amazing; vivid and bold like the blood oranges that are sold on the side of the road. In a few short minutes it melts into the horizon and another day ends in Africa.

Teaching in Style

August 9

It has been a very busy week especially for us newbie’s. The school’s teachers have slowly been arriving which means more parties, getting-to-know-you barbecues, and social activities. What is interesting about AIS is that it truly is an international school; the teachers are not just from the states or Canada but rather from all over the world. We have teachers from Mexico, Switzerland, South Africa, Germany, Spain, as well as other countries. I would say it’s about 50-50. You have to really listen when people speak because of the various accents. Of course, I have been identified as a Canadian because of my “accent”. I say “ Alright, you betcha to that.”

I have been very impressed with the school itself and since many of you have asked about the facilities and such I will write about that today. AIS is located on 23 acres a bit outside of the city on Leopard’s Hill Road---isn’t that a cool name. Lusaka itself doesn’t feel like a capital city at all. Despite having a population of 2+ million it is very spread out. There is little traffic or pollution. People live in various neighborhoods and most of the buildings are fairly new. Zambia received its independence in 1963 and therefore most of the infrastructure dates from the 50’s onward. Rather ugly but functional.

We are in the dry winter season and I am told that after the rains Zambia becomes a bouquet of color. Even so at this time there is a lot blooming. Most of the trees and plants I don’t recognize but there are bougainvillea, hibiscus, javanica, morning glory, lavender, and of course geraniums. It is always planting time and so I will try to grow veggies/herbs throughout the year. The four apartments will share a gardener for $25 a month.

The campus is beautiful. A series of small hills gradually take you up to the soccer field, gym, and high school area. Upon entering the gate you drive past the tennis courts, “Tuck Shop”, and the smallest of the three swimming pools. The primary school, library, and administration building are on the lowest level. The school is in the process of completing its new performing arts center. It will be state of the art and the only one in Zambia too. Behind this area are the elementary classrooms, then the middle school area, and lastly the secondary classrooms. Various sitting areas are scattered around the campus and it is beautifully landscaped. All the classrooms are named after Zambian flora and fauna. My classroom is called: “Mosi oa Tunya” (smoke that thunders) better known as Victoria Falls.

We are an Apple school---all computers are Mac and Apple has just opened its own store in Lusaka! The school is wireless as are the teacher apartments---a definite perk for those of us living on campus since it is very expensive off-campus. That said there are still numerous power outages and working online can be a major pain. Other perks include, tap water that is drinkable and a generator that comes on once the power goes off. My neighbors are great. The new couple from Atlanta, Charlie and Eloise, are super nice and funny.

The school year officially begins on Wednesday. The high school is on block scheduling. Lots of new things to learn but I am a firm believer of “getting out of your comfort zone” which I think I have certainly done by coming to Zambia. J

Hope I haven’t bored you too much. I will try to write a weekly blog. Keep in touch. I look forward to hearing from you too. ‘Til next time….

"Africa Lite"

3 August '09

I have been in Zambia less than a week and am adjusting quite well. People who travel a lot or know the "real" Africa tend to call Zambia "Africa lite"; meaning that it's an easy country to get around in, is politically stable, has little crime, and is not as frustrating to live in as other countries on this huge continent. So far, I would have to agree.

I arrived after a long flight from Frankfurt, Germany via a stopover in Johannesburg, South Africa. However, my luggage did not. This was especially annoying since I paid $703.00 for my extra bag. No, you did not misread the number nor did I make a mistake with the zeros---it was seven hundred and three dollars!! Thank you Lufthansa! 

I was met at the airport by the school's director, Chris Muller, and quickly whisked away to my new apartment. I will live on campus which is definitely not as bad as it may sound. The school is situated on 23 acres and the living quarters are separate from the classrooms. I live in one of the four townhouses and have a small patio area and share a large garden with my neighbors, a young teaching couple from Atlanta, GA. 

We have been kept very busy with several shopping excursions, dinners, city tours, and cocktail parties. Yesterday we spent the day at the Protea Safari Lodge. The lodge is known for its terrific brunch and beautiful accommodations. Our group walked along one of the numerous trails to the lion enclosure and watched as they were fed by a warden named Cosmos. He placed several dead chickens in the trees and the lions climbed to get at the food. Amazing! Cosmos told us that each lion (there were four) was fed 10 chickens per day.