Into the Wild

Into the Wild

Last Friday a large group of AIS teachers left directly after school in order to make our lodge/camp by dusk in the Lower Zambezi National Park. Believe me, no one wants to be on the road after dark. That goes for the city of Lusaka too. There are very few lights and those that do work are only in the actual downtown area. Once you leave the inner city it is pitch black. People are out walking and riding their bikes, often in the middle of the road, cars drive without headlights, goats and cows randomly cross the blacktop, and you have to be careful of the occasional drunk as he stumbles home. So it was crucial that we got on the road as soon as possible. It takes a good three hours to make the trip.

The drive is spectacular. As you leave the city, the highway slowly climbs out of the Kafue Flats and into the Chambizi foothills. Villages are scattered throughout. Hundreds of traditional mud and thatch huts, identifiable by their conical roofs, dot the landscape. As you near a village, children run at you trying to sell charcoal, vegetables, fruit and peanuts. Small boys lead their cows and goats across the road and women in bright colored chit tongs wave as you pass by.

We arrived at the Kiambi Lodge shortly before the sunset over the Zambezi River. The lodge is located high on the banks of the river with panoramic views looking across to Zimbabwe. The chalet tents are beautifully rustic and very comfortable. Most of our party opted to stay at the campground. As I lay in my bed, strange animal noises filled the night and I was very happy to be in my chalet above ground.

The next morning, as we sipped our coffee, we spotted our first elephant on the opposite bank of the river. Shortly after 8am, we set out on our canoe trip. I have to admit that I had serious second thoughts when the guide told us about the various dangers. The first being the hippopotamus. Hippos are considered the most dangerous animal in Africa. Should they become incensed, flip your canoe and attack you, we were advised to swim like hell for the shore. This advice contradicts the guidebook, which states: “Nothing in the Zambezi is intent on tipping you out of your canoe.” Hmmm. The second menace is the crocodile. We were told to give them a wide berth and not to dangle our hands in the water.

Despite our trepidations, we set off into the wild. It was an incredible experience. According to the travel guide, the park is considered one of the best places to see elephants and we were not disappointed. Small herds came down to the river to drink and we quietly watched them. Hippo “pods” were also abundant. At first, they looked like logs floating in the river but soon their playful antics and grunting sounds identified them. They were very interesting to observe. A large group of baboons kept a close watch on us as we floated down the river. The closer we paddled, the more they clowned around. We also saw numerous birds of all sizes and colors. The most spectacular being the Fish Eagle which is the national bird of Zambia. And yes, there were crocs, massive ones sunning themselves on the sandy shore.

I plan to make numerous trips to the Lower Zambezi. There is so much beauty here. I think next time I may even forgo the tented chalet and camp.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0509/sights_n_sounds/