Into the Wild

Into the Wild

Last Friday a large group of AIS teachers left directly after school in order to make our lodge/camp by dusk in the Lower Zambezi National Park. Believe me, no one wants to be on the road after dark. That goes for the city of Lusaka too. There are very few lights and those that do work are only in the actual downtown area. Once you leave the inner city it is pitch black. People are out walking and riding their bikes, often in the middle of the road, cars drive without headlights, goats and cows randomly cross the blacktop, and you have to be careful of the occasional drunk as he stumbles home. So it was crucial that we got on the road as soon as possible. It takes a good three hours to make the trip.

The drive is spectacular. As you leave the city, the highway slowly climbs out of the Kafue Flats and into the Chambizi foothills. Villages are scattered throughout. Hundreds of traditional mud and thatch huts, identifiable by their conical roofs, dot the landscape. As you near a village, children run at you trying to sell charcoal, vegetables, fruit and peanuts. Small boys lead their cows and goats across the road and women in bright colored chit tongs wave as you pass by.

We arrived at the Kiambi Lodge shortly before the sunset over the Zambezi River. The lodge is located high on the banks of the river with panoramic views looking across to Zimbabwe. The chalet tents are beautifully rustic and very comfortable. Most of our party opted to stay at the campground. As I lay in my bed, strange animal noises filled the night and I was very happy to be in my chalet above ground.

The next morning, as we sipped our coffee, we spotted our first elephant on the opposite bank of the river. Shortly after 8am, we set out on our canoe trip. I have to admit that I had serious second thoughts when the guide told us about the various dangers. The first being the hippopotamus. Hippos are considered the most dangerous animal in Africa. Should they become incensed, flip your canoe and attack you, we were advised to swim like hell for the shore. This advice contradicts the guidebook, which states: “Nothing in the Zambezi is intent on tipping you out of your canoe.” Hmmm. The second menace is the crocodile. We were told to give them a wide berth and not to dangle our hands in the water.

Despite our trepidations, we set off into the wild. It was an incredible experience. According to the travel guide, the park is considered one of the best places to see elephants and we were not disappointed. Small herds came down to the river to drink and we quietly watched them. Hippo “pods” were also abundant. At first, they looked like logs floating in the river but soon their playful antics and grunting sounds identified them. They were very interesting to observe. A large group of baboons kept a close watch on us as we floated down the river. The closer we paddled, the more they clowned around. We also saw numerous birds of all sizes and colors. The most spectacular being the Fish Eagle which is the national bird of Zambia. And yes, there were crocs, massive ones sunning themselves on the sandy shore.

I plan to make numerous trips to the Lower Zambezi. There is so much beauty here. I think next time I may even forgo the tented chalet and camp.

http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0509/sights_n_sounds/

Idioms

Bwanji,

Muli bwanji or how are you in the local dialect.

It has been one month since I arrived in Zambia. I can honestly say that I have not experienced culture shock ---after all, Zambia is considered “Africa-lite”. Lusaka has three major shopping malls, a Cineplex with 5 screens, Subway, a good selection of dark chocolate, Blockmaster aka Blockbuster, cell phones, Internet, and everyone’s car of choice ---the Rav4.

Still, there are a few things that take a bit of getting used to especially when it comes to driving in Lusaka and understanding the local idioms. A colleague invited a few of us for a “bush walk” to be followed by a “braai” and “sundowners” after school one day. Cool. She gave me directions to her house: “Take a left at the robot and then the first slip after the flyover and then it’s the first right after the sleeping policeman.” I assumed she meant the guard at her driveway.

Yes, all private homes are gated and have guards. They are also surrounded by concrete walls or electric fences, and as an added precaution, have one or more dogs as protection. Petty crime is rampant. Car jacking, purse snatching, pick pocketing, and scamming do happen. Jackie’s (a teacher who lives off campus) guard caught a young man stealing clothes off her clothesline the other day!

The school too has a high retaining wall surrounding the entire complex and it employs 25 guards. They do their drills on the soccer field every morning and look pretty smart in their green berets. They do not carry guns; there is no need. Thank God.

Several teachers walk or ride their bikes on the numerous trails/roads, which surround the school. When I say trails I am referring to the hard beaten, well-worn paths that the locals use. Many of them travel barefoot and their prints are visible in the red dirt. They are the men and women who work for the white families in the new houses. Afterschool, you will meet women carrying jugs or large bundles on their heads or men riding a bike piled high with charcoal or firewood as they head back to their neighborhoods.

It is the dry season and the hills are brown, the grass dry and brittle. The baobab trees stand starkly against the blue sky. Every leaf is covered in thick red dust. Early on a Saturday morning as you walk you often hear the rustle of an animal getting out of your way---could it be a cobra? Yes, they do exist as well as other poisonous snakes. One has to be careful. You are in the “bush”. Despite my fear of creepy-crawlies, I enjoy walking the hills off of Leopard’s Hill Rd. So I said “yes” to the walk with my colleagues. What Helen meant by the “sleeping policeman” was a speed bump. Ha! What a great phrase! I also like the word “robot” for traffic light. Or “slip” for exit or entry road, and “fly-over” means overpass.

Translation: We were invited for cocktails to watch the sunset (sundowner) and enjoy a barbecue (braai) on her patio.

The sunsets are spectacular. There’s a reason for naming cocktail hour for this time of day. I have never seen anything like it. The colors are amazing; vivid and bold like the blood oranges that are sold on the side of the road. In a few short minutes it melts into the horizon and another day ends in Africa.